Travel wise: Downtown San Diego

Gaslamp Quarter: This thriving downtown neighborhood of historic architecture, fine dining and lively nightclubs is eight blocks long (from Broadway to Harbor Drive) and two blocks wide (from Fourth to Sixth avenues). It's across the street from Horton Plaza and a short walk from most downtown hotels. Alternatively, you can ride the San Diego Trolley Orange Line to the Gaslamp Quarter Station on Fifth Street.

Lodging:Hilton San Diego Gaslamp Quarter, 401 K St., is an oasis between the San Diego Convention Center and the Gaslamp Quarter. Rack rates start at $189. An anniversary special good through March offers a deluxe room and two Frette cotton robes for $270 a night plus tax. For more information: (619) 231-4040 or www.hilton.com.

The Horton Grand Hotel, 311 Island Ave., is an elegant and ornate restoration of two separate hotels that first opened in 1886. It boasts of ghosts haunting the halls and offers high tea on Saturday afternoons. Rack rates are $169-$279. For more information: (800) 542-1886.

W San Diego hotel, 421 West B St. (near but not within the quarter), is a study in style, from the sleek lobby "living room" to the beach décor in the guest rooms, each with a window seat. Rack rates are $359 to $700 for a parlor suite, although they quoted $199 for single room on a recent weekend. For more information: (619) 231-8220 or www.whotels.com/sandiego.

Good eats: Cheese Shop, 627 Fourth Ave., is where locals go for coffee and eggs. Its waffles and pancakes are great. Its muffins are considered such a treat that they had sold out by 9 a.m. on a recent weekend. For more information: (619) 232-2303.

Café 222, 222 Island Ave., is a casual but great breakfast spot. The pumpkin waffle is one of the best my crowd had ever had, and everything else -- including the fruit and yogurt granola -- was excellent. For more information: (619) 236-9902.

Filippi's Pizza Grotto, 1747 India St. (near but not in the Gaslamp Quarter), is a delicious and inexpensive family-style Italian restaurant in Little Italy. Try the pizza and homemade sausage. For more information: (619) 232-5094.

Miscellaneous delights: Lucky Dog, 557 Fourth Ave., is an upscale pet store selling doggie perfume, breath mints and $295 Puchiebags for carrying your tiny dogs along with you. For more information: (619) 696-0364.

Artesia Day Spa, 240 Fifth St., is inside the Hilton San Diego Gaslamp Quarter. It is a soothing spot for relaxing those stiff muscles and pampering yourself. Reservations are a must on weekends. For more information: (619) 338-8111.

For more information: The Gaslamp Quarter Association, (619) 233-5227 or www.gaslamp.org.

San Diego Convention and Visitors Bureau, (619) 236-1212 or www.sandiego.org. The bureau's International Visitors Information Center is at 11 Horton Plaza (First Avenue at F Street).

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Travel wise: Downtown San Diego

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